Forgotten Kyiv restaurants: where the city's elite dined, along with others, in the 1950s. Discover the culinary history of this vibrant era.
Kiev has always been renowned for its gastronomic culture. In the last century, the city boasted dozens of dining establishments, each possessing its own unique atmosphere and characteristics.
"Telegraf" invites you to embark on a virtual journey through time and discover the most famous restaurants in Kiev that have become legends.
"Riviera": A Meeting Place for Kiev's Bohemia
Opened in 1935, the "Riviera" restaurant quickly became one of the favorite leisure spots for the residents of Kiev. It featured a spacious interior, an orchestra and dance floor, as well as separate gazebos. The "Riviera" was frequented by representatives of Kiev's bohemia, including poets Mykola Bazhan and Maksym Rylskyi, actor Oleg Borisov, opera singer Mykhailo Hryshko, and comedian Yuriy Tymoshenko (Tarapunka).
The restaurant's menu amazed diners with its variety: sturgeon, salmon, black and red caviar, chickens, and wild boar in berry sauce. The selection of drinks catered to every taste, including Moldovan and Georgian wines, Armenian cognac, and pepper vodka. Guests danced to live music from the orchestra. Indeed, live music was a staple in nearly all Kiev restaurants of that era. The restaurant offered an incredible view of the Dnipro River and Podil. Unfortunately, after the construction of the metro and the relocation of the main leisure area to Hydropark, the "Riviera" closed in the mid-60s.
"Kukushka": A Restaurant with a View of the Dnipro
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Not far from the "Riviera" was the "Kukushka" restaurant, named for its location in the area known as Kukushina Dacha. This complex consisted of winter and summer restaurants, along with two small cafes with buffets. The restaurant offered a splendid view of the Dnipro River. It was a popular venue for weddings and birthdays, as well as a gathering place for Kiev's bohemia. After banquets, guests would stroll through the alleys of Petrovskyi Park.
Popular dishes at "Kukushka" included chicken with tkemali sauce and hare in sour cream sauce. The establishment's vibrant atmosphere was enhanced by live music from a Romani vocal-instrumental ensemble.
"Dynamo": A Meeting Place for Party and Military Elite
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The "Dynamo" restaurant was built alongside the entire sports complex in 1933-1934 on the site of the former Chateau de Fler garden. The project was designed by the renowned architect Yosyp Karakis. Initially, the restaurant was planned to be constructed in a constructivist style, but later adjustments were made, favoring classicism and neo-empire styles.
"Dynamo" served as a gathering place for party and military elites, hosting government banquets. In 1936, after another banquet, the ceiling in the main hall of the restaurant collapsed due to structural changes made against the architect's recommendations. Karakis was arrested but later released. The restaurant operated until the early 2000s, after which it was transformed into a nightclub. Currently, the building houses a coworking space and a restaurant, albeit under a different name.
"Prague": Czech Flair at VDNH
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The "Lebed" restaurant opened on the grounds of the Exhibition of Achievements of National Economy (VDNH) in 1956. In 1959, following the Czechoslovak exhibition held at the complex, the establishment was renamed "Prague." Czech specialists helped create a new image for the restaurant: they changed the lighting, furniture, wall paintings, provided recipes, trained chefs, and supplied products, beer, tableware, and even uniforms for the staff.
"Prague" enjoyed great popularity. Alongside traditional Ukrainian dishes, Czech delicacies were added to the menu: eggs and steak Prague style, "Brno" schnitzel, Moravian sparrow, "Prague" salad, knedliky, and goulash soup. After 20 years of decline, the restaurant resumed operations in 2011 and reopened its doors to guests.
On the VDNH grounds, there were also restaurants "Vesna" and "Leto," but only the renovated "Vesna" restaurant remains today, housing the office of a public organization.
Restaurant Prices in Kiev in 1952
Prices in Kiev's restaurants in 1952 may seem amusing by today's standards. However, it should be noted that the average monthly income for a family of four at that time was approximately 700 rubles. Here are some examples of prices:
- Breakfast (two fried eggs, rolls with butter, coffee with cream): 5.25 rub.
- Lunch (meat dish with potatoes and vegetables, salad, rolls with butter, pastries, cocoa): 15.7 rub.
- Dinner (meat dish with vegetables, rolls with butter, ice cream, coffee with cream): 11.75 rub.
- Cheese: 4 rub.
- Sausage: 7 rub.
- Salmon: 5 rub.
- Red caviar: 12 rub.
- Vodka (150 g): 10.9 rub.
- Cognac (150 g): 18 rub.
- Bottle of beer: 6 rub.
- Bottle of champagne: 42 rub.
Other Notable Restaurants in Kiev
In addition to those mentioned above, there were other popular restaurants in Kiev that were well-liked by the locals:
- Restaurant "Record" in the building of the Kiev Hippodrome;
- Restaurant "Sport" (later "Caucasus") on Krasnoarmeyskaya Street (now Bolshaya Vasilkovskaya);
- Restaurant "Theatrical" at the "Theatrical" hotel near the Opera House;
- Restaurant "Leipzig" at the Golden Gates;
- Restaurant "Kiev" at the "Kiev" hotel (formerly "Prague" hotel);
- Restaurant "Intourist" at the "Intourist" hotel;
- Restaurant "Abkhazia" in the basement near the Central Grocery on Khreshchatyk;
- Restaurant "Dnipro" in Podil;
- Restaurant "Chayka" at the "Pishchevik" Culture Palace;
- Floating restaurant "Poplavok" on Naberezhne Shose;
- Restaurant "Dubki" in Holosiivskyi Park (later renamed "Istochik").
These restaurants were not just places to enjoy good food; they were also centers of Kiev's cultural life. Friends gathered here, important events were celebrated, and the atmosphere of the city was savored.
Previously, "Telegraf" provided a detailed report on the "Riviera" restaurant. Among the patrons of the restaurant were notable figures such as Alexander Vertinsky, Lyubov Orlova, Faina Ranevskaya, Alexander Dovzhenko, and others.